rice
The Layered History of Biryani
From Persian pilaf to global phenomenon
September Essay · meat
A Question of Doneness
On rare steaks, old animals, and why most of the world was right all along
Here is a question that rarely gets a proper airing in popular food culture: when did the world start eating rare meat? I had been thinking about how much of European cooking, particularly for beef and lamb, treats medium rare as the default, the aspiration, …
From the
kitchen
Eggplant, peppers, olives and capers in a Sicilian stew, my take on a grandmother's recipe from The Silver Spoon. Good with crusty bread.
A chicken curry built on black pepper rather than a long list of spices, its heat softened by onions and yoghurt. Best with roti or paratha.
Two layers, one of vegetables in tomato sauce and one of spinach, mushrooms and cheese, under a golden crust. Good enough to forget the meat.
Squid rings tossed with popping mustard seeds, curry leaves and dried red chillies. On the table in under 15 minutes.
The best way to enjoy pork: fork-tender meat and earth-shattering crunch.
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